Kayak Karma
Published in South Carolina Magazine, September/October 2005
Story and photos © Richard A. Bernabe
It is late summer evening and warm sunlight is is sparkling off the rippled surface of a South Carolina low country river. What more could be asked? For just a minute, you set down your paddle and take it all in. A red tail hawk cuts it impressive form over thousand year-old bald cypress trees just as a brittle pod of cattail stalks rattles across a warm breeze - nature's own wind chime. Breathe deeply and catch the sweet fragrance of wild wisteria on the air. You are now experiencing sensory overload.
Paddling a kayak
through a low country blackwater river or along the edge of a coastal
barrier island is a magical experience and an ideal way to see, hear, and
completely immerse oneself in the natural surroundings of South
Carolina's Lowcountry.
Outboard engines or jet skis might propel you over the water at a more
modern pace, but only by quietly paddling can you get an intimate glimpse of
the flora and fauna with its guard down. Floating stealthily just above the
water's surface, you feel like a seamless part of the environment as opposed
to an alien intruder. Kathie Livingston, who owns and operates Nature
Adventures Outfitters in Awendaw, South Carolina, says appropriately,
"Kayaking is the least intrusive way to experience nature. In getting 'out'
and experiencing our waterways you come to better appreciate their value."
Kayaks generally come in three different styles - each to fit a different environment or paddling trip. The whitewater kayak is a highly maneuverable craft and, aside from "surfing" waves on the beach, are of limited value when paddling coastal areas. The sea kayak is long and and sleek and is designed for paddling in flat, open water like lakes and bays. It can also handle large swells that you would likely encounter on the open ocean. The sea kayak is also ideal for longer distances and multi-day expeditions due to its stowing capacity. Both the sea and whitewater kayak are designed to "roll", which enables the paddler to upright him or herself when turned over, without exiting the craft.
The recreation kayak is quickly becoming the most popular of the three kayak styles. It is the most stable and easiest to paddle of the three crafts making it highly recommended for beginners. It is also very adaptable to different waters - from day trips on flat water bays and lakes to slow moving blackwater rivers.
The coastal blackwater rivers are one of South Carolina's natural treasures.
. "They are a paddler's paradise," Livingston says. "The tranquility and
peace that one experiences is healing to both the mind, body, and soul."
Blackwater is stained the color of weak coffee - thus the name. It's the
leaching of tannins from decaying leaves of the adjoining vegetation that
gives the water its dark color. The river channel is usually deep and the
pace of the 
current,
leisurely. Deep within this primeval water is the genesis of a food chain
that burgeons into one of the most diverse ecosystems in the world. In this
prolific habitat, you can spy bald eagles, hawks, ospreys, herons, egrets,
and the occasional sunbathing alligator - all from the seat of your kayak. A
blackwater river can take you from dense forests of water oak and massive
bald cypress trees that project the majesty of cathedral spires to spacious
skies of abandoned rice fields and wildflower meadows.
Paddling the saltwater bays and ocean involves more planning and preparation than the inland rivers. "Saltwater trips are more prone to windy conditions, strong currents, and tides - not to mention more boat traffic," Livingston says. Attention to weather and sea conditions are critical to having a safe and enjoyable experience. Unless you are familiar with the conditions and the potential hazards that accompany them, a guided tour is recommended. Paddle among dolphins, loggerhead turtles, and wetland shorebirds on the way to a coastal barrier island. Spend the night under the stars on a remote beach while on an overnight paddling expedition. The saltwater marshes and brackish estuaries will introduce you to yet another ecosystem for close encounters with migrating neo-tropical birds, waterfowl, and river otters. The possibilities for adventure along the South Carolina coast are endless and the kayak is the most rewarding way to experience them.
By exploring the rivers, swamps, and coastal areas by kayak, you are forced to slow down and really see, hear, and even smell what's happening around you. It's the ideal diversion from the frenetic pace of modern life - where our connection to the natural surroundings is often merely a blur through the windshield at 55 m.p.h. The photographer Walker Evans once wrote, "Stare. It is the way to educate your eye and more. Stare, pry, listen, eavesdrop. Die knowing something. You are not here long."
