Wander and Wonder

Published in South Carolina Magazine, July/August 2007

Story and photos © Richard A. Bernabe

     Is a trip about the destination or the journey itself?

     On the roadmap of life, we often have to choose between taking the quickest, most practical path and taking the scenic route. Since hiking has never been about merely getting from point A to point B in the most efficient manner possible, the scenic route is usually preferred option. Come to think of it, isn’t taking the scenic route the whole point of it all?

     If there ever was the ultimate scenic route in South Carolina, the Foothills Trail would be it. This footpath for hikers traverses the most dramatic and inspiring mountain scenery the Palmetto State has to offer. From high mountain ridges to misty waterfalls to cool river corridors of rhododendron and mountain laurel, this trail showcases the very best of the state’s natural beauty.

     “The Foothills Trail is the classic hike of South Carolina,” says Robert Stephenson, Chairman of the Board of the Foothills Trail Conference. “There is no other trail in South Carolina with as many features and diversity to hold the interest of the hiker.”

     The Foothills Trail is a 76-mile woodland path that connects three major state parks along the Blue Ridge Escarpment in Upstate South Carolina and a small portion of North Carolina. It connects Oconee State Park in the west to Table Rock State Park in the east. The trail also crosses the state line and passes through Gorges State Park in North Carolina.

     The idea for the trail was conceived in the mid-1960s in order to make the dramatic scenery of the Upstate wilderness more accessible to hikers and nature lovers. By the early 1970’s the U.S. Forest Service, Duke Power, Sierra Club, and the South Carolina Department of Parks, Recreation and Tourism took the first steps to make the trail a reality. Through the generosity of many landowners, including Duke Power, and the help of volunteers, the Foothills Trail finally linked together Oconee and Table Rock State Parks in 1981.

     “The Foothills Trail has three distinct sections: Pinnacle Mountain, Jocassee Gorges, and the Chattooga River section,” says Stephenson. “Each section has a different flavor and feel and offers a unique experience for the adventurous hiker.”

     The Pinnacle Mountain section of the trail starts at Table Rock State Park, the traditional “jumping-off” point for thru-hikers attempting a continuous trail completion. The trail quickly ascends to the flanks of Pinnacle Mountain before eventually topping Sassafras Mountain, the highest elevation in South Carolina at 3554 feet. A 2000-foot descent then takes the hiker to Laurel Valley and the foot of the beautiful Jocassee Gorges.

     “I believe the Pinnacle Mountain section is the most scenic and interesting of the three,” says Stephenson. “This is also the most challenging section for the hiker as it quickly gains and loses lots of elevation while traversing some extremely rugged terrain.”

     The Jocassee Gorges section of the trail passes through a pristine wilderness of wild mountain rivers, prolific wildlife, and rare plant life. The trail crosses several tributaries of Lake Jocassee including the Toxaway, Horsepasture, and Whitewater Rivers.

     “The Jocassee Gorges is the most remote of the three trail sections,” says Stephenson. “The trail here offers fantastic views of Lake Jocassee and the gorges and I always see lots of wildlife every time I am passing through.”

     Here the trail wanders briefly into North Carolina and the newly-created Gorges State Park. This rugged and remote terrain is prime black bear habitat and it is not unusual to spy one or two when hiking through this section. The Jocassee Gorges is also one of the few places in the world to see the delicate and rare Oconee Bell wildflower. Much of the flower’s habitat was lost when Lake Jocassee was created in 1973. 

     After traversing the Jocassee Gorges, the trail passes by two very impressive waterfalls, Upper and Lower Whitewater Falls. From the top of Upper falls to the bottom of the lower, the Whitewater River drops an impressive 700 feet in little more than a half-mile.      

     The Chattooga River section extends from the Bad Creek Hydroelectric Station near Lower Whitewater Falls to the trail’s terminus at Oconee State Park.     

     “What makes the Chattooga River section so special is its accessibility,” says Stephenson. “This allows for several different variations of day hikes if you don’t have the time or equipment for an overnight stay.”

     “This section of the Foothills Trail also parallels the National Wild and Scenic Chattooga River for several miles of its course and passes by quite a few scenic waterfalls,” adds Stephenson.

     In the mid-1980s, a connector trail was built that also connected Sassafras Mountain to Caesars Head and via Gum Gap. This spur passes through the Mountain Bridge Wilderness Area and the magnificent Raven Cliff Falls in northern Greenville County.

     Other spur trails that give the avid hiker opportunities to explore the South Carolina’s mountain wilderness are the Eastatoe Gorge and the Fork Mountain Trail. The Eastatoe Gorge, in particular, is a lush pristine valley within the Jocassee Gorges area. Several varieties of rare ferns exist here including the Tunbridge Fern, found nowhere else in North America.

     The Foothills Trail Conference is a non-profit group of 450 members that maintains and promotes the Foothills Trail. They are a valuable resource for questions about the trail and the group publishes The Guide to the Foothills Trail, a booklet of maps and detailed trail descriptions.

     Any hiker wanting to see the entire trail can complete it all in one continuous trip or as small sections over time.

     “The Foothills Trail can be completed in its entirety in about 5 or 6 days as a thru-hike, but most people who complete the trail do it in pieces as day hikes,” says Stephenson.

     With so many convenient access points along the trail, completing the trip in a series of day hikes is a good option for the casual weekend trekker. Spreading the trip out over time also puts less stress on the body and makes the hike a more enjoyable one.

     That’s important – just as taking the scenic route is once in a while.

     In our modern-day vernacular, “taking the scenic route” has become a euphemism for making a wrong turn or getting lost. Maybe it’s time to get lost for a while and experience a day on a true South Carolina treasure, The Foothills Trail. The exact destination is unimportant.

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